The more things change, the more the stay the same. What is true in life is true in cooking (and drinking). Even when we cook ever-more-complicated food and mix ever-more-esoteric cocktails, the simple often (usually?) wins the day. And recently, we were playing with some very, very complex cocktails before we decided to mix a simple Hoffman House (a Martini of 2/3 dry gin, 1/3 dry vermouth, orange bitters and a lemon twist). Not surprisingly, the simple cocktail was the best thing we have had in weeks.
The same holds for cooking. Just a few weeks ago, Michael Bauer of the SF Chronicle mentioned the Brown Butter Chicken of Corso, a Tuscan-inspired restaurant in the East Bay. Now, frankly, we go to SoCal (even NYC) more often than the East Bay (sad to say, but it’s true). So while may not make it to Corso, that chicken sounded amazing. Chicken, butter, flour, salt, lemon and heat- simple. So we made it. And, indeed, it was simple….and simply, f@#king awesome.
Of course, you may be saying “it has brown butter, how bad can it be”? And you would be right. We use brown butter all the time on fish, veggies and pasta. Brown butter is one of the fastest ways to improve a dish (and kids love it). But it is always good to get a reminder that the best basic flavors work all sorts of places. And in this case you crisp chicken on the stovetop with butter ( high fat “Eurobutter” like Plugra works best), cook it through in the oven…with butter, and then finish on the stovetop and brown even more butter…then add some lemon to cut that butter. Yup, the only thing you may be asking is “why didn’t we do this sooner…and who is our cardiologist again?”