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Category Archives: Vegetables

  • Seared and Poached Halibut with Salsa Verde and Sugar-Snap Peas

    May 1, 2012

    7 Comments

    Earlier in our lives, Carolyn and I were lucky to spend a good amount of time in the Southeast, particularly the Carolinas and Georgia. We love the people, land and beaches and built a real love of the local food. Southern-influenced food, especially real barbecue, is a part of our regular family cooking here in California. We also experienced some of the “new” southern cuisine in Savannah and Charleston, and fell in love with many of the flavors. Dinner at Elisabeth on 37th in Savannah is still one of our best dining memories. So when new southern-influenced chefs emerge, we take notice. And if they have a cookbook, we often give in to temptation (addiction?) and buy it. Such is the case with Athens and Atlanta-based chef Hugh Acheson of Top Chef and Food and Wine’s “Best New Chef” award fame. He recently published a his cookbook “A New Turn in the South” and we decided to try it out.

    We have been working through this cookbook for a few weeks and with very good results. Acheson has gone out of his way to create a cookbook that will work for the home cook. So far we are happy with the cookbook, with the one bummer that some of the recipes contain ingredients we will have a hard time finding locally in California. But this recipe, featuring a dual-cooking method for halibut and sugar-snap peas that are just coming into season, stood out for us and we decided to try it. And the result was a restaurant-quality dish you can make at home.

    Now you might asking, “a restaurant-quality halibut dish? why halibut?” Well, Pacific halibut is a sustainable beautiful, and tasty fish, if you don’t overcook it and dry it out. Halibut is a great match with bright flavors like herbs and spring vegetables, but the key is to find a home-cooking method that keeps the halibut moist. With this recipe, Acheson gives you an easy, predictable cooking method that keeps the fish moist and then accentuates it with a sweet pan-sauce, tangy salsa verde and crispy sugar-snap peas. In the end, you get the range of textures and flavors that elevate a dish beyond the realm of regular home cooking. Continue reading →

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    Posted By: putneyfarm Category: All Recipes, Dinner, Lunch / Salads / Sides, Vegetables Tags: a new turn in the south recipe, halibut recipe, huch acheson, salsa verde recipe, Seared and Poached Halibut with Salsa Verde and Sugar-Snap Peas. Seared and Poached Halibut with Salsa Verde and Sugar-Snap Peas recipe, sugar snap pea recipe
  • New Potatoes With Brown Butter and Herbs

    April 30, 2012

    7 Comments

    New Potatoes With Brown Butter and Herbs

    Sorry Idaho, Long Island in New York has the best potatoes in the world (unless the potatoes are grown in your garden, those are always the best). And, it turns out, Long Island also gives us one of the best potato recipes in the world, new potatoes with brown butter and herbs. This recipe is one of the best “easy” recipes for any vegetable you can get.

    But before we get to the recipe, let us explain the deal on potatoes from Long Island. Long Island, as we know it, formed about 21,000 years ago during the last major ice age and is what geologists would call a glacial moraine. Basically, as the ice crept down over New England it scraped up all the good topsoil and pushed it into a big mound in front of the glaciers. When the glaciers receded, the mound of topsoil was left, and we get Long Island.

    And Long Island is made of some of the best soil on Earth. And to top it off, Long Island is surrounded by water, with moderate temperatures. Suddenly, New York gets some of the best farm land on the planet. Conversely, the reason New England got stuck with cranberries and dairy-farming is because New York got all their good soil. The pattern of New York taking New England’s best continued 20,900 years later with the Yankee’s purchase of Babe Ruth from The Red Sox…but we digress…

    Long Island’s soil is a mixture of sand, gravel, silt, clay and topsoil that ends up being a great fit for agriculture. What the soil and moderate summer temperatures get you is very productive land and very flavorful crops. And potatoes are a perfect fit for the land and climate. Long Island potatoes simply taste more “potatoey” than any we have tried- except the ones we dig up and eat from our garden. Generally we think Long Island potatoes are the best. To be fair, Idaho has great soil for potatoes, but the soil comes from ancient volcanic activity. So maybe “different” could be a better adjective. But Long Island potatoes (or almost any “legal” crop) cannot compete against real estate development. So while Long Island has great produce, sadly, it might not with us much longer. Continue reading →

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    Posted By: putneyfarm Category: All Recipes, Garden and Orchard, Lunch / Salads / Sides, Vegetables Tags: brown butter potato recipe, butter and potato, new potato, new potato recipe, new potatoes, New Potatoes With Brown Butter and Herbs, New Potatoes With Brown Butter and Herbs recipe, yukon potato, yukon potato recipe
  • Rapini Fritto Misto

    April 25, 2012

    17 Comments

    Rapini Fritto Misto

    Carolyn and I are suckers for cookbooks and cooking magazines (and cooking shows and cooking websites). Frankly, we have way too many, but we never stop, we can’t help it. We may be Food Porn Addicts. We probably need to seek treatment. But, as it is, we keep buying.

    When we buy a cookbook, unless it is a familiar author, we are making a leap of faith. You would be surprised how many bad, and we mean bad, cookbooks are out there. But with the magazines, we start to see some predictable patterns. We know that Cook’s Illustrated will give some good tips but often adds useless steps to make their recipe seem “new and improved”, or just because they seem to all have OCD (and need to keep selling cookbooks with the same recipes rehashed 😉 ). Saveur recipes are good, but can be inconsistent and need to be thoroughly reviewed before we try them.  And our friends at Sunset magazine have good, solid recipes but the dishes are almost always under-seasoned, at least to our tastes.

    And this leads us to today’s recipe for Rapini Fritto Misto. The recipe is adapted from a Sunset recipe, and guess what? We added more seasoning. But it is a fun, tasty dish and since it involves frying, everyone likes it. Rapini, also known as Broccoli Rabe, is a relative of broccoli. The rapini is basically a thinner, leafier version of broccoli, with smaller “florets”. We think rapini is a bit more flavorful and easier to cook than regular broccoli and buy it at the farmers market when we can- normally fall and spring. Usually we sauté the rapini with a little bacon or pancetta, garlic, red chile flake, salt and a few splashes of wine. But we wanted to try something new, and deep-frying is always a popular way to make almost anything.

    So let’s talk a bit about deep-frying, there are many reasons some cooks prefer to not deep fry at home. It can be messy. It does involve some danger of burns and fire. You need to use some specific tools. If done improperly the food will taste bad and be greasy. And, honestly, we do not deep fry all that often. But it is fun, and deep-frying is a technique that can be very useful for the home cook. (Just wait until we give you Carolyn’s recipe for home-made jelly doughnuts, yum). Continue reading →

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    Posted By: putneyfarm Category: All Recipes, Kitchen Gear, Lunch / Salads / Sides, Vegetables Tags: broccoli rabe fritto misto, broccoli rabe recipe, deep fried broccoli rabe, deep fried rapini, rapini fritto misto, rapini recipe
  • Caramelized Fennel: The Best Fennel You’ll Ever Eat

    April 5, 2012

    129 Comments

    Caramelized fennel.

    No one is happier than us that spring has arrived, but the new season does provide a few cooking challenges. After a full winter of kale, we tend to go overboard with spring produce at the farmers market- so we have piles of asparagus, artichokes and fennel to cook every week. We are OK with the asparagus and artichokes, we have plenty of good recipes for those veggies. But what are we supposed to do with all this fennel?

    If you don’t cook with fennel, it is a large, layered white bulb with a fluffy green top. It is in season spring and early summer (there is also a fall crop in some regions). Fennel has a crisp texture and tastes like licorice, or “anise”, if you want to be nice. With anise as the lead flavor of fennel, it becomes a challenge to find a compelling use for the stuff. Fennel is tasty shaved on salads or as a minor component in fish stews, but if you go a bit crazy and buy four bulbs, you need a dish that uses it all. And it would be nice if it actually tasted good.

    Happily, we found a dish that doesn’t just use up the fennel, it really rocks– you will actually want to buy fennel on a regular basis. And it is easy, too. You simply caramelize the fennel. That’s it. Fennel, olive oil, salt, pepper and a squeeze of lemon. A sharp knife, a hot pan and 20 minutes. And you suddenly get a great snack or side dish that features sweet, crispy fennel with just a nice touch of the anise flavor. Continue reading →

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    Posted By: putneyfarm Category: All Recipes, Lunch / Salads / Sides, Vegetables Tags: caramelized fennel, caramelized fennel recipe, fennel, fennel recipe, good fennel recipe, panisse vegetables, victory garden cookbook, zuni cafe cookbook
  • Pork Belly Ssam With Celery Root Remoulade

    April 2, 2012

    5 Comments

    Building your own recipes often creates some strange bedfellows. In this case, we developed a recipe based on the work of two cooking titans from very different places in the culinary spectrum: David Chang and Ina Garten. Chang is the bad-boy New York City chef of Momofuku fame, known for excellent, innovative Asian-inspired comfort food that is uniquely upscale and downscale at the same time (a tough balance to pull-off, btw). Chang is also known for extreme profanity, the occasional tirade and the pursuit of perfection. Ina Garten, better known as the Barefoot Contessa, is a Food Network staple, former Hamptons caterer and cookbook author who is best known for simplifying classic recipes and coolly saying “now, how easy is that”. I doubt they often share afternoon tea.

    Actually, I have no idea if they know each other, or how they feel about the other’s work. But I will tell you that they have very different approaches to cooking- and their cookbooks bear this out. Chang’s “Momofuku Cookbook” has some very easy recipes, like pork belly, but is also full of multi-step, hard-to-find / make ingredients and sometimes highly technical cooking. The Momofuku cookbook, not surprisingly, reads like it was written by a chef. But happily, we do get some incredibly tasty, and easy recipes for the home cook like roasted pork belly. It is a great dish and anyone can make it. And it is really, really good. I have (very happily) had pork belly at Momofuku Ssam Bar and the home version competes very nicely. It is porky, soft, fatty, salty and incredibly indulgent. Yum. Double Yum.

    (Ed. Note: A few years ago, we had a take-out roasted pork shoulder from Momofuku as part of a Thanksgiving meal in New York with family and friends. It was one of the best, most memorable, meals we have ever had. I thank David Chang and his team, to this day, for helping that meal happen.)

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    Posted By: putneyfarm Category: All Recipes, Dinner, Home-Cured Meats, Musings, Vegetables Tags: barefoot contessa, celery root remoulade, david chang, momofuku, pork belly, pork belly ssam, pork belly ssam with celery root remoulade, ssam
  • Baby Artichoke Ragout with New Potatoes

    March 28, 2012

    4 Comments

    Artichokes are one of our favorite vegetables at Putney Farm. Usually we eat large artichokes and artichoke hearts, but we recently discovered a special treat, young or “baby” artichokes. These are the first artichokes of the year and are still very small, about 2 inches long or less, and quite tender. So small and tender that you an eat most of the outer leaves, and you do not need to remove the inner “choke”. After some trimming, you can eat these artichokes whole.

    When and where can you get baby artichokes? Artichokes have two seasons, spring and fall, and you may be able to find these small beauties early in each season. As for where, we would suggest a farmers market, probably in California. Central California’s Monterey County (Castroville, to be exact) is the epicenter of US artichoke farming, almost all commercial artichoke farming takes place in this area. Most baby artichokes are likely to stay in this area, as farmers and locals like to keep them to themselves. However, artichokes are highly prized by chefs worldwide, so it is worth seeing if you have a small local producer at your farmers market. And if you can find them, with their tender texture and earthy flavor, baby artichokes are worth seeking out. Continue reading →

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    Posted By: putneyfarm Category: All Recipes, Garden and Orchard, Lunch / Salads / Sides, Vegetables Tags: artichoke, artichoke potato recipe, artichoke ragout with new potatoes, baby artichoke, baby artichoke recipe

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